Last weekend I got a chance to get the carbs off and cleaned. Noticed that one of the diaphragms was torn, so I replaced it and cleaned the jets, which actually looked great.
Put everything back together, and a quick run and up and down the drive way yielded a nice and smooth powerband up 3k rpm. Workweek rolls around along with bad weather, so I didn't get a chance to do a thorough test ride till yesterday.
I take the bike out, try to accelerate down the street and run into the same bogging down problem. I didn't pull the plugs to check their condition. I don't think I'm going out on the limb thinking that that the bike is running lean, but I'm hoping the valves haven't been damaged as a result. I personally have only put 2 miles on it since its unride-able right now. Your problem might be the fuel filter on the small vacuum line at the petcock. This is an air line and no fuel runs through it.
The purpose of this line is to open a diaphragm that lets fuel drain into the carbs when the bike is running.
Lean and Rich Symptoms in Motorcycle Carburetors
When the bike is not running the diaphragm closes and gas stops flowing to the carbs. With the fuel filter in this line, there may not be enough of a vacuum to open the diaphragm to allow enough gas to enter the carbs especially under power, i.
Because of this I think you're emptying your float bowls and that's why it bogs under power, but will idle just fine. When I took the tank off and saw the filter there, I was surprised. I was pretty sure the small tube functioned exactly as you described, but since I didn't have access to a hose long enough, I was hoping the in-line filter wouldn't upset the vacuum too much.
I assumed it wouldn't. If the bike runs well and revs quickly, the jetting is fine for the aftermarket parts and the problem is most likely that ill-placed fuel filter.
If the bike doesn't run well it's probably a jetting issue, though you should still remove that fuel filter. Another quick thing to check is that your ignition wires are going to the correct cylinders. You said that you had fuel coming out the muffler, which can be caused by a lack of combustion of the fuel if the spark timing is off.
The improper wiring can also cause your bog down problem, though you would notice right away there's a problem with the idle. Since you're new to the bike, check out some youtube videos to see if your idle is the same as other people's.
Then rebuild all the carbs and have them properly balanced. I would then start returning the fuelling and air system to stock, 1 piece at a time, as it's most likely being caused by one of the mods. Also, while I wouldn't expect it to be the root of the problem, but certainly could be a contributing factor, running the stock jets with a freer flowing system filters and exhaust can cause things to not run great.
Dont know that it would cause the amount of bog you are talking about but its possible i suppose. Also, im not too familiar with bandits but im assuming its oil based clutch and gears Oil looks good, actually. Nice and clean, like it was changed recently which the previous owner said it was. Its for sure not a dry clutch in there. The first thing I would do is put the stock air filter back in.Do not post these threads in any other forum. If you do, they will be moved or deleted as they are found.
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What's New? Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 15 of Thread: Carb idle mixture screw which way for rich or lean. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Carb idle mixture screw which way for rich or lean Is this screw a fuel screw adjusts fuel or air screw - If I screw it in is that making the mixture richer or leaner? Thanks in advance - i'll be looking for a right angles screwdriver soon so I can adjust without taking the carbs out. Treat yourself to an angled screwdriver. Make an easy job of the mixture settings.
I've had one for a long time. Essential bit of kit. Out is richer. I found an angle screwdriver is next to useless. I am getting so fed up with the poor mpg and rough running that I am going to get a jet kit When pulling my engine apart I found the current plug was sooty - previous plug was fine, I'm now wondering if the air filter i had made could be affecting things Last edited by pegasocas3; at PM.
What filter "you had made"??? That's what i'm wondering - it's an oiled 3 stage foam filter calculations done by the company that made it say it's good for HP so shouldn't be restrictive.
I've checked the choke - seeems fine. Are you guys sure about this? Originally Posted by MrToomanytoys.Login or Sign Up. Logging in Remember me. Log in. Forgot password or user name? Suzuki bandit running a bit lean. Posts Latest Activity. Page of 2. Filtered by:. Previous 1 2 template Next.
Benny D. So got a bandit recently. Only ridden a few times but notice a bit of rough idle and low speed low rpm isn't super smooth with a bit of surging.Raduno di pesca al
After consulting the interwebz it seems the bandit is fairly lean tuned from factory. Now paired with an after market can it's stated to become noticeable. So question is. Is there a relatively cheap easy fix for this or does it have to be custom tuned with dyno etc. If i can avoid big expenses to fix it like dyno power commander etc I'll be happy. I'm not after power gains.
Just smooothness. Tags: None. Ok so more searching done.Mwanamke tabia sauti sol video
There's a product called dobek electronic jet kit. On the face of it. Seems exactly like what i want. Just to up the fuel input a bit. Anyone had or heard of these used? Comment Post Cancel. How old is it? Note: this may not be the universe where the above is relevant.
I'd be surprised if a new slip-on caused that alone, there must be an underlying issue. Run some fuel system cleaner through. On my 06 B12 I ended up lifting the needles with tiny washers Smoke me a kipper I'll be home in time for breakfast. Speed Dealer.Every carburetor know to man will have a way to adjust the air fuel ratio at idle.
This adjustment will trim the mixture so that you can have a smooth running engine. They work opposite of each other so it is important to know that before performing this procedure. What you are after when adjusting this screw, is too reach peak idle RPM and smoothness. This is the engine telling you it is happy, and it runs best at this mixture. The pilot jet is sized correctly if the air screw setting falls between turns out, with 1.
A pilot air screw will be made of brass, gold in color, and will have a blunt tip compared to a pilot fuel screw. I use the smallest diameter screwdriver so I generate the least amount of torque. A pilot air screw will be located on the air box side, while a fuel screw will be located on the engine side.How To: Jet Carburetors WITHOUT A JET KIT
This is true for most carburetors. When in doubt, remove the screw and see what kind of tip it has, that will determine what it meters. This video walks you through removing them. Now, adjust between these two settings to achieve highest RPM and smoothest running engine.
Reset idle to recommended settings and test ride motorcycle. If they dip below idle, lean the mix. When you close the throttle and decelerate, the engine runs lean, and can pop through the exhaust.
Sometimes this is considered normal with a race engine and open pipe. Hi, this website is very helpful for me. Thanks before. But i have an issue on my mikuni bs. Its fit while engine on idle.
But when run test, the engine feel rich and the spark plug is black. Try to to lean the screw its not helping. Engine run idle on fuel screw 5 counterclockwise. The engine was smooth enough for running. But the spark plug is minor lean. What should I do? Thanks for advice. Those are 2 drastic results for changing pilot jet one size. With the How many turns out for peak RPM and smoothness?
If you screw it in, can you kill the engine? Very appreciated.Vacuum leaks are very common in older motorcycles.22lr lethality test
The most common area of vacuum leaks are the carb holder rubber boots. The rubber degrades over time, dries out, and can begin to crack or become brittle. Sometimes the boots look fine until you bend or stretch them, which can reveal cracking.
The images below show a carb holder from a Polaris that looks fine until you bend or stretch the boot. While this particular boot was not cracked all the way through, it was replaced as preventative maintenance.
Kiss that engine goodbye! Throttle shaft seals can also cause vacuum leaks and are the most difficult to replace. The leak can be caused by either worn throttle shafts, bad seals, or both. Some carbs rely on the tight clearance between the throttle shaft and carb body to minimize air leaks.
Below, a Keihin carb from a Nighthawk which has felt installed on the throttle shafts, is not to be mistaken for a seal. If you run into a situation like this, I would recommend replacing the felt with an O-ring. The fuel pump diaphragm can also leak fuel through vacuum tubing causing the motor to stall on deceleration.
The video below will show you how to check a fuel pump diaphragm. Please refer to diagnosing methods below to thoroughly check your motorcycle. Sometimes it will idle higher or lower. Never attempt to synch carbs without verifying that there are no vacuum leaks. This will give you an idea of what symptoms to look for. Luckily, diagnosing vacuum leaks are pretty easy, at least when the leak is fairly large and greatly affects performance.
To find your vaccum leak, choose one of the above and spray or point in the suspect areas while engine is idling. Any change in idle RPM, whether up or down indicates a vacuum leak. Below is a video on how to find vacuum leaks. I own 4 older bikes and all have symptoms of vacuum leaks and or have been improperly jetted or not jetted at all to compensate for the change in exhaust of air box to pods….
Hi Dave, yes vacuum leaks are to be expected with older bikes. I have done this test with starter fluid. I can not the leak. I did just change the 4 mixture screw hoping that would help. Any idea as to what I might be missing? I am nervous to pull the diagram cover but is this the next step you would take? What year make model? Butterfly or slide carbs? Have you cleaned the carbs? What is the overall tune of bike valve adj, timing, etc?
In order to truly tune my carb, I want a better understanding of the symptoms of lean vs the symptoms of rich.Xnxx pakistan desilady mp 4
Terms often used are: Stuttering Hesitating Running Rough etc etc. In your post you indicate that some of the symptoms you have read are contradictory.
I will try and clarify between the two conditions and attempt to give you guidelines in troubleshooting between the two. Pilot Circuit - small effect on idle. Higher effect at lower RPM's with decreasing effect to full throttle.Nepali bhaluko number
Main Jet - Wide open. Fuel is metered through the main by the jet needle at different throttle positions. Choke circuit - Initiated by a valve or butterfly that increases the vacuum and opens the circuit up. Cold starting and warm up. Wide open throttle yields no power. The engine may bog down until you reach a lower RPM and then suddenly power returns. Runs better at higher altitudes - AFR becomes normalized due to reduced atmospheric pressure allowing fuel into the venturi easier.
Backfires - Popping on deceleration for a lean idle circuit or backfires in general. Runs on choke - The vehicle may run on choke when it's warm but stalls if the choke is turned off. Engine runs hot - Due to more oxygen than fuel combustion temperatures are hotter reflecting on a temp gauge. Hanging idle - The engine idles high and then drops and stalls. Typically a lean condition caused by an air leak between the butterfly and the head or a vacuum line that is not attached.
Sharp Odor - The exhaust smell may be sharp and burn your nose.Carburetor air leaks, typically known as vacuum leaks, can be one of the most baffling repair problems to solve.
Air intake leaks around the carburetor, especially at the throttle body basecan go undetected because another system usually gets blamed for an engine miss, sporadic rpm behavior, stalling and sometimes overheating. The normal repair person might think that the ignition system high-energy ignition or plugs has caused the symptoms.
Hiding just out of reach, the illusive vacuum leak can be detected if you know what to look for. An increased and steady idle speed can be one of the best warning symptoms for detecting a carburetor air leak.
If attempts to turn down the idle speed adjusting screw have failed old-make carburetorit means the blend of air to fuel ratio has changed in favor of too much air passing into the intake manifold. This leans out the fuel mixture which raises the engine speed. The change could be as noticeable as twice the normal engine idle speed. With fuel injection vehicles, if the air bypass adjustment screw refuses to change the idle speed, it means air has entered the throttle body, also leaning the mixture and raising the rpm.
A rough idle, or "loping", which can sound almost like a high performance cam can be a telltale sign that the carburetor or throttle body has allowed a constant flow of air into the intake manifold.
Extra air leans the mixture out and fuel can not burn properly when entering the combustion chamber. This causes a constant lean misfire.
Ruling out an EGR valve that can be stuck or a loose or defective PCV valve, will narrow the problem down to an air leak in the carburetor. A serious leak with massive amounts of air flowing into the system can cause non-idle condition, forcing the use of the gas pedal to keep the vehicle running. Extremely lean mixtures caused by air leaks produce excessive HC hydrocarbonsand such vehicles almost always fail an emission control test. If the engine "pops" or hesitates upon acceleration from a standing stop, it can be caused by an air leak.
Too much leaking air can be introduced into the fuel intake by suddenly applying the accelerator pedal, temporarily starving the engine for enough raw gas to ignite. Other ignition components should be ruled out first, like worn plugs, dirty fuel injectors, a cracked coil, etc. Provided the idle mixture adjustment screw looks good clean needle end and seats into the carburetor, if it refuses to affect the idle speed at all when turned in, it means that air leakage has bypassed it, making it inoperative.
With the majority of air leaks around the carburetor and throttle body there will be a detectable hissing noise. It means air has been forced to enter a tight or restricted passage breach and a hissing or whistling sound results.
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